I don’t care what
anyone says. Canned cranberry jelly is way better than the real
stuff.
It’s
got a consistency not found in nature, mostly because it’s not
found in nature. It retains its can shape with an eerie fidelity, and
when wild animals eat it, they get acid indigestion and have the
squeaks for a week. Somehow, this all ends up in the positive column
for this annual holiday staple, despite the fact that its acidity
could liquify lead ball bearings.
If you’re one of
the Thanksgiving revelers who slaved over their time-honored
cranberry sauce recipe, then fear not. The real stuff is good, too.
Really the only crime would be to pass a Thanksgiving meal without
touching a teaspoon of this wonderful bounty; that would be like
celebrating Christmas without a tree, or Independence Day without a
hangover.
Somehow, though, the
faceless corporate cranberry people got it right. I realize not
everyone shares this view – most, in fact, would prefer ma’s home
cookin’ to the jiggly, off-the-shelf fare found in supermarkets. Of
course, most people prefer Sprite to Sierra Mist, and these
unfortunate souls are insane.
Generally, homemade
food is preferable. Better to eat an imperfect cake that’s been
prepared lovingly than to rot your teeth on a generic,
factory-fashioned concoction. Better still to sink your teeth into a
burger that’s been cooked on your friend’s grill than the
flaccid, gutless patties offered at countless fast food chains with
cartoon mascots. There’s something about the home touch – the
fresh ingredients, the time and effort – that makes food better.
Usually.
But this isn’t
always the case. As far back as I can remember, each of my
Thanksgiving meals has been conjured from raw materials, whipped into
shape by a host who didn’t mind a little elbow grease. I’ve been
lucky that way. The perfectly imperfect mashed potatoes have all been
moderately lumpy, the squash has been fresh, and the birds have been
so recently dead you half expect a browned wing to slap your fork
away, as if to say, “Watch it, jerk! That hurts!”
Then you look at the
cranberry jelly and imagine you can still make out the serial number
stamped onto the bottom. How the canned stuff became a family
tradition is a mystery; I picture a sweating Lagasse in early 20th
century Lewiston, flour and turkey guts caked high on her forearms,
crying with relief when the first canned cranberry made its way into
her hands. “At last!” she sobbed. “My life has been made easier
by science!”
Over time, I got so
used to the fake jelly that when I first tried the real stuff, I
thought someone was playing a sick, cruel prank. Where was the weird
residual coating on my palate? Where was the perfect symmetry, the
subtle undulations on the side of each cookie-cutter slice, ribbed
for my pleasure? Blasphemy!
Ordinarily I’d
side with the little guy over the large company. Not that I'm
inherently anti-corporation by nature; many are so evil they make
Darth Vader look like an asexual dog groomer, but that's a
generalization, and there are a few that break the mold. Rather, it's
a David and Goliath kind of thing. When the two sides of a fight seem
mismatched, it's a natural human impulse to root for the underdog,
the little guy. In most spheres of life, this is what feels more
comfortable. More just.
Not so when it comes
to cranberries. Using the ever-trustworthy (cough) Internet as a
resource, the history of the canned version is pretty easily
explained. Originally, see, cranberries were “dry harvested,”
meaning a hoard of sticky-fingered workers would scour the fields
during dry weather and pick the berries from their vines, which is
how fresh cranberries – and most fruits – are still made
commercially available today. Except for pineapples, of course, which
are delivered to supermarkets by demons fresh from the deep, dark
depths of hell.
At
some point, the companies growing the berries commercially started to
“wet harvest” them. That sounds like a unit in a middle school
sex education class, but wet harvesting is basically just a machine
skimming loose cranberries from the surface of a flooded bog. You get
a lot more bounty with a lot fewer people that way, but you also get
a lot of crummy cranberries mixed in with the good ones. As early as
1912, companies like Ocean Spray figured out what to do with those
leftover cranberries: can them, let them naturally congeal, and then
sell them as mouse pads. When they realized the computer mouse hadn't
been invented yet, they figured, “Aw, heck. Let people eat 'em.
Can't be any worse than a fruitcake.”
So
with a little ingenuity, the packaged product took its proud place
beside Aunt Doris' homemade apricot-and-lizard-sphincter pie. It's a
bit incongruous, this impeccably cylindrical treat, but Thanksgiving
really wouldn't be the same without it. Which is what the holiday is
all about, really. The fact that the banana bread and green bean
casserole have all been made from scratch isn't the point; it's the
fact that the same cherished foods grace our plates year after year.
Repetition is what makes a tradition a tradition. If you ate nothing
but day-old pizza and Twizzlers each Thanksgiving for 20 years, then
doggone it, the holiday just wouldn't be the same without it. Someone
would hand you a plate of fresh turkey and applesauce and you'd
recoil in horror, whipping out your cell phone to order something
that comes with blood-thick dipping sauce.
We
enjoy Thanksgiving every year because it's familiar and comfortable.
Canned cranberry jelly plays into that nicely, so bring it on. Mom's
blueberry pie, cousin Sandy's chocolate pudding and Ocean Spray's
congealed fruit.
Sounds
about right to me.